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Camera and Lenses:
Power to the camera
- Make sure power cord is in good condition. At the end that goes into the battery slot in the camera, there is a 90° bend that can fray and short out.
- Check the surge suppressor- if it gets switched off, none of the equipment will work.
- Verify that the door to the battery compartment is shut all the way.
- If left on, but unused, the camera will 'sleep'. Pressing the shutter part way will wake it.
Issues with the lens
- the Lens should be fully locked into place. An unlocked lens won't work, and is at risk for falling on the floor.
- a polarizing filter is normally on the 100mm lens. This will lead to less light getting in, so adjust shutter speed (or unscrew the filter and put it in it's case)
- When using Helicon Remote, the distance scale (A) must be set at 0.31m-infinity, and the focus mode (B) must be set to MF (manual focus).
Camera Body Settings
- Make sure the Mode dial is set to M (Manual)
- there are many other setting available with these cameras. For stacked photography, they are not used.
Helicon Remote
- if there is no communication between the camera and the software, check the USB cable for loose connections.
- if the lens won't move both directions, check the distance scale toggle on the camera lens. It must be set to 0.31-infinity.
- you can control how many 'steps' the directional buttons go. Under the File menu, select Preferences. Choose Shooting/Cannon. Size of focusing steps is either big or small. A specimen that takes 7 'big' steps can take 40 or more 'small' steps.
- the auto-focus button is not used for stacked photography. Turning it on has no affect.
- high contrast lines shown in the 'Live Preview' will appear slightly ragged or wavy. This is a phantom affect- the output image has none of these features.
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